The ‘retrieval’ kayak

April 21, 2008 at 4:40 pm | Posted in Kayaks | 6 Comments

Circa 2006-2007: I had always wanted to build some kind of small boat, and in doing research on boats, plans, etc. I came across a wonderful resource for skin on frame kayaks that directed me towards some of the smaller documented kayaks of the arctic.  To put it lightly, I ‘fell in love’ with the ‘skin boat’ technology and abandoned all other construction methods to help get myself out on the water as quickly, and for as little cash, as possible.  After seeing the construction techniques advocated by the most prolific designer of home built kayaks, I took off adapting the lines of an early 20th century North Alaska “retrieval” kayak design to more modern construction methods.  Using Rhinoceros 3D, I built the frame digitally, making some modifications for ease of construction along the way, until I felt I had exactly what I was after.  I had intended to built it from one sheet of 7/8″ plywood, with all parts CNC-cut, but the longitudinal components weren’t up to the task and were later replaced with solid wood during construction.  The CNC-cut cross sections, bow, and setern assemblies were used.

The frame construction took about a solid month of evenings and weekends to complete.  There is minimal glue used, with most parts being doweled and/or lashed with artificial sinew (waxed nylon fiber).  I assembled the frame outside during the winter, and needing to use very little glue allowed me to make progress dispite temperatures being much too low for glue cure on most occasions.  The plywood is yellow pine, 7/8″ thick, and the solid wood is mostly pine, but western red cedar and spruce were also used in a few places.   The frame weighs in at 29 lbs, which is a little heavy for a skin boat its size, but this is due to the heavy plywood and pine used.

Adding the skin took another month of long nights.  The skin is stretched over the frame and sewed together along the deck, which is both easier than one might imagine but also quite time consuming.  The actual fabric is a light weight polyester – much lighter than most skin boats use – but for protected inland lakes, and my low budget, it seemed adequate.  The skin was sewn on with dental floss.  The coaming is attached by sewing as well, but it is held in place with heavier nylon cord and artificial sinew.  Once the skin is sewn on, it must be coated to make it waterproof.  I chose to use Rustoleum enamel, since it is both cheap and available in many colors (I still chose black, however!).  I painted on coats of enamel until I had used almost 2 quarts and was satisfied with the smoothness of the hull.  The skin and paint added 10 lbs to the total weight, bringing the total weight to 39 lbs.  Again, a bit on the heavy side for a skin boat its size, although its lighter than commercially-produced plastic kayaks of a similar size.

So was it successful?  Yes!  It floats, and paddles nicely.  Its not particularly fast, but no 10′ kayak is fast compared to the more typical sea kayaks that range from 16′ to well over 19′.  I made enough changes to make it my own design really, its longer than the documented original by 10″, and the gunwales are oriented at a different angle, not to mention the construction methods.  The deck is lower, and the cockpit is larger/longer and of a modern shape.  I made many changes and design decisions for the wrong reasons, even though it turned out well overall.  Dispite the short comings, I paddled it often during 2007, even on Lake Norman in 2′ chop.  This little black duckling has changed my life, however; it was the most enjopyable and rewarding of the many projects I’ve undertaken, and I cannot wait to build another.